Paris Report

Bonjour,

It's day 3 in Paris.  My luggage finally arrived at 1am. Yesterday, we went to the Louvre. I'll tell you about that on another post but today we have to talk about our trip to Reims, pronounced urais not reems.  All I know is that we went to the Champagne region.  And yes, Today was a good day!

Reims, the Champagne region is about a two hour drive from Paris heading west.  We left early this morning and our first stop was the town of Reims.  A typical town with small streets, boutique shops and a Cathedral, the Notre Dame Cathedral of Reims. Built between 1211 - 1516 it's, Gothic in appearance and was the site of the coronation of French kings. On almost every corner is a Champagne store selling a wide variety of Champagnes and most of my favorites with unique cases, paraphernalia and these wonderful pink cookies called biscuits roses de Reims.  They are a great accompaniment with Champagne.

Jean Paul Gobillard

We only spend an hour in Reims before we continue to Chateau de Pierry for a tour, tasting and lunch. Chateau de Pierry is an 18th century mansion and the owner, Jean Paul Gobillard, is a 10th generation owner.  Their Champagne, Paul Gobillard is a smooth Brut.  They use three grapes for their wines and champagnes.  Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay.  Jean Paul Gobillard is a very charming man and excitedly greets us outside in the courtyard.  He guides through the courtyard and to the front of the mansion and the garden.  The front lawn is shaped like a butterfly and at the end is a small river that runs along.  Unfortunately, it's the beginning of Spring and because of the colder weather not much is in bloom.  he then takes us into one of the cellars where the room is dark and damp like most cellars are.  There we taste his Champagne and Tony
Richards, the on air personality on WHUR, is selected to open the Champagne with a saber.  First, Jean Paul gives a demonstration, then it's Tony's turn.  He appears to be a bit nervous but he attentively watches and steps up for his turn.  With a 1..2...3 count he does it and in one swoop the cork pops and the Champagne pours.  Violla, Tony has done it and the drinking begins.  Tony is then presented with a certificate and can now use his new skill.

We head to the mansion for lunch in a well decorated room that's line with photos royalty.  We have a three course lunch that was delicious.  Starting with Feuillantine Champenooise aux Pleurotes et Champignons du temps, Fouillis d'herbes.  Puff Pastry with Oyster mushrooms of the Champagne region and a mess of herbs.  The mushrooms are unctuous.  Second course is Supreme de pintade en croute d'amandes au Champagne, polenta cremeuse. Supreme of guinea fowl in a pastry case of almonds in Champagne and creamy polenta.  The finale is Tarte chocolate en feuillantine craquante.  Chocolate brown tart in crunchy feullantine. Each course is paired with a wine and the desert is paired with their Rose Champagne.

Janyce & Earline

Two of our group members are celebrating a birthday so we serenade them with Happy Birthday and their dessert is presented first with candles.  When one of them leaned forward to reach for something the fringes from her shawl caught a fire from the candle.  Several people started hitting her shawl to put out the fire.  Getting every one's attention.  Knowing she was OK it not hurt some of the group members from another table came to her and started singing "This Girl is on Fire"!  It was hilarious!

The group started our quiet and by the second course and wine paring the vocal decibel's were raised.

You would think this was enough but we head to Epernay, the Capitol of Champagne for more wine tasting,  En route we drive down Champagne Avenue.  Now that's an address I'd like to have.  Champagne Avenue is lined with Champagne houses.  I'm so excited you would think I was passing by celebrity homes.  To me and some of the others it really a celebrity experience.  We passed by Perrier Jouet, Moet & Chandon, Dom Perignon, etc.  We were all taking photos and calling them out as we passed by.

Our last stop was at Mercier, a large scale Champagne house founder by Eugene Mercier.  He was the first to produce Champagne on a large scale and to do so without loosing the integrity of the Champagne.

The cellar tour starts with a short video, then to an elevator with a glass wall that takes you down thirty meters to the cellar itself.  The cellar tour is by train and it is massive with dark tunnels and thousands of barrels. Here we do three tastings.  Are we having fun yet.  Every one's demeanor has changed and some are getting really loose but in a fun way.  I truly enjoy seeing the group let their hair down and having a good time.

We now hit the road for our journey back to Paris.  On the bus we play Champagne trivia games to see who was paying attention during the presentations and after that it only takes 15 minutes before it gets quiet and the eyes start to close.

Tomorrow, we head to Bordeaux.

Later,
Ja'Vonne Harley, Co-Host, the Traveling eye
www.thetravelingeye.com

Ahhhh Paris

I just arrived in Paris. Instead of going to the hotel we take our city orientation tour and then to the Eiffel Tower. It's a a bit colder than expected but it's OK because it's Paris.  The sun is peaking out from time to time and provides a bit of warmth.  It's a bit windy standing below the Tower and when the sun is covered by the clouds it feels 10 degrees colder. Pashmina don't fail me now.  Actually on of our group members is wearing his wifes bright orange pashmina.  He says, I don't know what a pashmina is but it's keeping me warm and right now I don't care that it's bright orange. Looking up at the Eiffel Tower it appears to move because of the effects of the clouds passing by.  I'm trying to get the right angle to fit the tower into a picture. With the right tilt it works.


Our tour begins and is the behind the scenes tour so we start in one of the working tunnels.  It's a world of it's own.  Pieces from inside of the tower show how its made.  Workers are coming in and out and we learn about the how food, materials and the construction is transported and the vast and many tunnels that exist beneath the Tower.

After our underground excursion we head to the East Tower to enter the Eiffel Tower itself.  Unfortunately, there is a delay.  The staff have walked out but instead of leaving they are having a meeting with management and we're told it's because of being understaffed.  Our entrance tickets are for 10:30am and it's now 11:00am so we're not sure what time business will resume but we're assured business will resume.  Our tour company is busy trying to sort things out.  We're also to have lunch at noon at 58, one of the Eiffel Towers restaurants.  Now, I'm getting nervous, I have 70 people standing in line anxiously waiting to visit the Eiffel Tower and to have lunch.  We get a call that the director will come to get our group and take us to the restaurant and we will tour afterwards.  We feel so special as we are escorted ahead of the line and allowed to enter.  Then the rest of the staff arrive and everyone who was in line including those who were there since 9am are allowed to enter.

We go through a side door and down the stairs to view the mechanisms of the Eiffel Tower.  It's amazing how the Tower is constructed and what it takes to maintain it.

The hunger pangs are knocking and we are ready to get in out of the cold, have a seat and a wonderful meal.  We're having a three course lunch with wine.  We start with duck and foie gras terrine, followed by seared salmon with marscapone foam and finish with a meringue.  It's all delicious and paired with the fantastic views from the restaurant this is an awesome way to experience the Eiffel Tower.

Heading back to the hotel for some much needed rest and to try and track my luggage that did not arrive.  This is another story and another blog post.

Until tomorrow...we're visiting the Louvre!

Ja'Vonne Harley, Host, The Traveling Eye
www.thetravelingeye.com

In Salvador, Bahia, Brazil

It’s Sunday, and more then anything else, this is family day at the beach for those who call Salvador home. That means a mixture of the richer hue that makes up Brazil. By richer, I mean in melanin, because Brazil is definitely not a “melting pot” no more then the US is. Brazil is a rich chocolate cake with a thick layer of mocha and a thin layer of vanilla cream on top. It’s thin, but it is clearly on top. As George Bush noted to Brazilian President, Fernando Henrique Cardoso, "Do you have blacks, too?". Yes Mr. President. Brazil has “Blacks Too”. An overwhelming number of Brazilians are of African decent and Brazil has the largest number of people of African decent in the Western Hemisphere (Your Cerebral Injection for today). And if Brazil has a lot of Blacks, then Salvador is C.C. (Chocolate City).

But I digress… It’s Sunday and that means a day at the beach. Brazilians are into family. That means all the kids, a few neighbors, their kids, grandma, grandpa, aunts and uncles and anyone else that can squeeze in the car or on the bus is here at Ondina Beach or any number of beaches that cover the coastline. They come prepared. Not just umbrella and towels, but with furniture, pots of excellent smelling food, dishware, radios and a recognition that this is a really going to be a good day. It’s similar to a family day at Coney Island, North Beach or Haines Point if we were in NY, CHI or DC.

They know how to do up the water sports too. You see, the coast is rocky and full of boulders and cliffs. Some people go out and work the waves, but the experts know that there are natural pools among those rocks. About knee to waist high and perfect for lying back and relaxing. Add this to a nearly perfect (hot) climate year round and you can spot folks lounging in these natural pools anytime, 24 hrs each day. So families arrive early and stay until late. Soccer (football) games are ongoing, home made kites fill the air and music comes at you from every direction. Of course the kids are all texting each other, but that is simply what a Family Day is now and going forward. Why call someone who is 100 feet away when you can write them a message. Marconi would be so proud and Edison confused.

I am also at Ondina Beach to see the Fat Girls Statues. Now before those cards and letter (or threatening text) start. This is a series of three statues that represent the women of Brazil (If not by proportion). The furthest from the beach is a Native American looking back toward the mountain and the land she called home, a European on one leg as if feeling the sun from Europe, and an African looking back with a longing for Africa. It is big and powerful but can be overlooked as you drive  by. But it is worth stopping for.

Well it is hot, and my sandals are now stuck to the pavement. My sunscreen has runoff and my water bottle is boiling, so I am heading back to my hotel. Don’t do Brazil with out seeing Salvador and Bahia. If Rio is the pulsating heart, then Salvador is definitely the Soul.

See you on the plane…

Gene Harley, Executive Producer, The Traveling Eye

If it is Tuesday…it’s Olodum in Pelourinho

I arrive on a Tuesday. Stressed out from my economy seat and not so consumerable meal.  I checked in to my hotel and went to sleep for a few. You do this because on Tuesday night, we follow the beat of the drums to Pelourinho, the old section of Salvador, Bahia in Brazil.  Highways and sidewalks with modern high-rise buildings give way to cobblestone streets as the drumming grows louder and you no longer hear it, you feel it. The people begin to move with a singular rhythm. The colonial churches and buildings guide you to small streets and alleys and there you are, In the midst of a thousand of new friends who were also drawn and can feel the beats of AFRICA.

Olodum is the Drumming that takes place on Tuesdays and has since 1979. Back then it was "Terça da Bença" (Tuesday of Blessing), originally designating the day Saint Francis of Assisi, would distribute food to the needy. Later it became the day when bands would practice. Now the streets of Pelourinho fill with people dining, drinking and dancing. It is truly a street party on the grandest, but purest scale.

As a bit of history, The Grupo Cultural Olodum was founded in 1979 by the dwellers of the Maciel-Pelourinho district of Salvador. It has grown to include any number of street marching bands. Clubs with bands and corner groups fill in the chorus. But back then they were working to get their percussion section into Carnaval. Blacks were not always part of this celebration known Worldwide. The name Olodum, like the drum, the rhythm and the people all are African. Olodum is from Olodumaré "the God of all gods” in the Nigerian Yoruba religion of Candomblé which is another reason why you must visit Salvador and Bahia. All this and so much more is alive in Salvador, Bahia, Brazil’ where the African Diaspora LIVES.

Gene Harley, Executive Producer

Israel - Heading North

After leaving Tel Aviv we headed north and our first stop is along the Mediterranean Coast. Israel is a small country so we were never on the road for more than two hours. I like that we didn't have to fly and deal with the hassle of an airport and luggage.  Israel's infrastructure is great.  The roads are paved throughout and the highways are medium sized.  I would say easy to navigate because we had a driver and the signs are in Hebrew, Arabic & sometimes English alphabet.

Bonnie, Amir, Ja'Vonne

Our first stop at 9:00am is to the Binyamina Winery.  That's right 9:00am.  Somewhere in the world it was 5pm.  This is a Kosher winery, which means that everything from the vines to the bottle must be handled by a sabbath Jewish person.  The ingredients of wine are not non-kosher so it's deemed kosher by who handles the wine making process.  Israel wine is quite good and I purchased a couple of bottles for myself.  A blend of Cabernet sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot.

Israel fascinates me every step of the way.  Our next stop is Nazareth.  Nazareth is the largest Arab town in Israel and the start of the Gospel Trail and Christian Pilgrimage.  I forget that it is Arabic and say thank you to a merchant in Hebrew.  He replies in English and then it hits me....I should have said shukran and when I remember and correct myself he smiles and replies afwan (you're welcome in Arabic).  We visit the Basilica of the Annunciation.  It's a Catholic church that is built on top of Byzantine and Crusader churches and it's the site where Mary was told by Gabriel that she would give birth to Jesus.  There is a shrine to Mary here and the site is beautiful.

We were introduced to another faith and culture in this area. Druze.  In the Carmel National Park we met with and had lunch at a Druze village.  The Druze culture and religion are very interesting.  They are people without a land. Druze theology believes that God was incarnated and as a whole in reincarnation of the human spirit.

Continuing on to Haifa, Israel's third largest city and as we are told the place where many cultures co-exist.  We're in the mountains and it's a bit colder than Tel Aviv and Nazareth.  I can't complain though because we're told that the week before was in the low 30's, rainy and windy.  For our visit it's in the upper 50's in this part.  One of the most beautiful & impressive attractions in Haifa is the Bahia Faith World Center.  It's sits high atop the city and it's gardens are absolutely breathtaking.  Irregardless of your faith you can come here connect spiritually just with the shear beauty of the surroundings.  Nature has a way of equalizing us all.  The Bahai Faith is among the newest independent world faiths and believe in a peaceful and unified world.

Next stop Akko and Galilee...we're getting serious folks.

Ja'Vonne Harley, Co-Host - The Traveling Eye
Photos by Howard Little, Video Twist Productions

Israel is Unexpected

I could not get into my blog from Israel so I was unable to blog each day.  I will start as if I am starting my trip so you can journey with me.

I never really thought about Israel because I saw it only as the Holyland.  Nothing against the Holyland but I wanted more from the destination.  When we were contacted by the Israeli Office of Tourism I started researching what Israel had to offer and found that Israel is a very diverse country and has a lot to offer for leisure tourism.  I also thought that I would find heightened security and wasn't sure if that would set the tone for the trip.

Bonnie $ Ja'Vonne at Airport

Starting with my arrival at the Ben Gurion airport that's located between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem I was surprised that the security was no more or less obvious than at any other airport.  The people were friendly and accommodating.  I was tired upon arrival but this observation relaxed me.

At d

Driving to Tel Aviv I couldn't help but notice that Tel Aviv is a very modern city and I felt like I was in any major city.  Great infrastructure!  We checked into our hotel, freshened up and went for dinner.  I'm going to do a separate blog on "The Flavors of Israel" so I won't go into the restaurant at this time and will only say that it was a fantastic introduction to Israel and it's cuisine

After a good nights rest we awoke the next morning to begin our day and tour of Tel Aviv.  We headed to Abrasha, a vantage point high above the city to get a birds eye view. Tel Aviv is located on the west coast of Israel and has a nice shoreline.  Don't know if you can see in our photo (it was a hazy day) there are surfers below.  I always head for a highpoint to see what the city looks like from above and for photos.

We did something a little different in Tel Aviv.  Instead of focusing on the history we focused on the neighborhoods, arts and culture scene of Tel Aviv.  We felt that we would get so much history throughout the rest of Israel that we wanted to see what the people and social scene was all about.  After all Tel Aviv is only 100 years old.  Our guide for the day, Doron Ozer, took us to on a walking tour through Old Jaffa, the ancient seaport, Neve Tzedek, Tel Aviv's oldest neighborhood whose historic homes and alleyways have been restored.  We met the people along the way.  I don't have her name but one lady we met was the first to restore in her neighborhood and others soon followed.  We met a fabulous artist, who is dyslexic.  Ms. Llana Goor is world renowned and because she did not fair well in school because of her learning disability, focused her energy on art and sculpting.  Her museum is in her home.  It's three floors with a roof top and might I add, one of the best views in the city or as she says, the best in Israel.

We also walked through the Carmel Open-Air market and Doron treated us to Israeli fast or street food, which ever you like to call it.  One stand only sold hummus.  Hummus so many ways it left you repeating it over and over again...hummus, hummus, hummus.  One stand only did Shawarma, a pita pocket filled with chicken, lamb or beef and different sauces.  You could get a mini or a regular sized one.  Since we were on a tasting tour we went for the mini.  Hmmmm delish. We were then serenaded by a singing barista.  His shop only serves coffee and he usually does concerts on Tuesdays and Fridays.  We were there on Monday so this was a special treat.  I almost forgot about the falalel shop.  I don't know how because the tastes were unforgettable and some of the best falalel I've ever had and the variety... A stop at a fruit stand I couldn't pass up fresh squeezed pommergranite juice. A big ole pommergranite pressed on an old fashined lemon juicer. OMG, so fresh!

That night we hit the bar scene.  Some were quiet and others were loud.  Unfortunately we were party poopers and only hit two.  We were so tired from the traveling to Israel and the full day of touring we couldn;t do any more.  I wish I could have done more.  The first bar we went to was just for socializing and drinks.  Several tables looked to be ladies night out.  The second bars music greeted us a block away with dancehall reggae.  We danced a bit and then called it a night.  We pooped out.

I must say this was a nice way to see the city, walking through neighborhoods, meeting people and tasting street food.

Thank you Donor!


Bonnie, Donor, Ja'Vonne

Photos by Howard Little, Video Twist Productions

New Year New You

Oh my goodness! It's that time of year again.  Time for a soliloquy. I like soliloquy rather than resolution because I reflect before I resolve.

Where have I been?  What have I learned?  What do I want and/or need to change?

Hmmmm, let me think.......

I've been to Egypt, Dubai, Croatia, Sheboygan, South Africa, Aruba, Brazil,  Denmark.

What I've learned along the way?

• "There is nothing to fear but fear itself." I went hang gliding in Brazil. The experience was liberating and absolutely breathtaking! I will add an adventure to my travels. Stepping out of your comfort zone will renew your confidence and perspective.
• Sustainability is easier than you think for yourself and your country.  We'd all be better off for it.  In Denmark I visited a hotel that operates mostly on this principle.  From the design and construction of the building to the food.  Solar panels are built in, ground water is used to heat and cool the building, the wasted food, which there is a ton of at hotels, is used as compost in their organic farm, the country has the largest wind turbine plants in the world, 80% of the people bike and there are concessions for electric cars for 10 years! I will be mindful of the footprints I leave behind. I will use my towel more than once. I will use the toiletries until they are gone before getting new ones. I will take a walking tour or rent a bike for my health and the health of the environment.  I might even take a Voluntourism trip.  Might is the operative word. I'm a work in progress.
• The middle east is just as diverse as any other part of the world.  Egypt is a mix of liberal and conservative Muslims but overall more liberal with ancient structures and history.  No alcohol is served outside of hotels and cruise ships while Dubai, UAE is far more conservative in Islamic practice but far more modern. Basically catering to foreign vacationers and alcohol is served at just about any establishment that caters to foreign visitors. I will not judge on outer appearances or what I've heard.  this is part of getting to know the locals.  You'd be surprised what you might learn about people.  It could confirm your beliefs or change them.
• Dubrovnik is beautiful and very classic European. I've been pronouncing it wrong.  The emphasis is on Du not Brov. It's DUbrovnik vs. DuBROVnik. It's been just 20 years since Croatia declared it's independence from the former Yugoslavia. And 13 years since Serbia occupied a piece of Croatia. Can't believe it's been that long. Time does fly as you mature.LOL
• In Aruba everyone is affectionately called mi dushi, Papiamento for my sweet or sweetie.  Call someone Mi Dushi and they will love you for it.  It doesn't seem to matter who you are speaking to.  We came upon a public official and our guide called out to her "hey mi dushi." Pronounced dooshee. Hmmm, should we refer to our politicians as sweetie?
• South Africa remains one of my favorite destinations.  It's now on the list of emerging markets or as we call them in the industry BRICS (Brazil, Russia, India, China & South Africa).  I came upon a lot of nationals traveling and vacationing within their own country.  That's a great sign. When I revisit a destination, I will try something different, visit a new place, meet new people.
• Sheboygan was a nice getaway and road trip.  Sometimes you don't have to travel far for a cultural experience.  Yes, I said cultural experience.  Each of our states and cities have their own culture.  Sheboygan is a quiet seaside resort town with a close knit community.  Lake Michigan is really an inland sea! This was my second deep sea fishing adventure but my first catch.  It was a five pound lake salmon.  They smoked it for me and mailed it to me. OK, we did not go out that far but it was far enough.  It wasn't a thirty pound marlin but it was just right for me.
• I gained 10 pounds last year after working hard to take off 50 pounds two years prior. The good news is that I'm already back on track. That being said, I know the error of my ways during my travels and will not consume every meal as if it's a crucial part of my travels. When I'm just eating for sustenance I will do so mindfully and save the calories for the meals that really are crucial to my travels.
• I work in the travel industry so this may sound funny to you but I will take a vacation. I haven't had one in at least 4 years. All of my travels have been for work. You may not have sympathy for me but understand that what I do is work.
• I will engage more with the locals. Maybe even invite someone to coffee just to chat and really learn about the country and the people. It's interesting to hear what people think about their country, your country and the world. Especially what they pay in taxes.
• I will say hello, please and thank you more and learn it in as many languages as I can. It's fun and the response you get is priceless.

This is what I plan to do for the New Year and beyond. I hope that I make it such a habit that it will forever be a part of what I do.

What will you do?

Happy New Year and resolve to travel and experience!

Ja'Vonne Harley