Reminiscing About France

I've returned home and now I'm reminiscing.  Memory lane is a fantastic destination and one of the biggest joys of traveling.

This trip, I rediscovered Paris and visited cities I had never been to before.  It's been at least 15 years since I've been to Paris and a lot has changed while some of the basics remained the same.

What has changed? The people were friendlier, more immigrants and people of different ethnicity's, more American fast food chains (Starbucks is everywhere, practically one on every corner, along with McDonald's, KFC, etc.), the French Franc is a thing of the past and it is quiet expensive (things are priced similar to the US Dollar but when you convert the Euro @ 1.34, you're paying at least 30% more).

Paris is still romantic. A stroll along the Champ Elysee at sunset with the Arc De Triomphe in the distance.  Viewing the Eiffel Tower from afar and from the top looking out over the city. The gardens in Spring time with flowers in bloom.  Ascending to the top of Montmarte visiting Sacre Couer, sitting at a coffee shop and watching artists paint their surroundings and visitors.  Some of the best chocolate, Chocolate shops and Patisserie's (you have to have macaroons, those pillowy pastries filled with cream in all sorts of flavors).  Some of the best dining in the world.  Our first night we went to Maison Blanche for a fine dining experience and a five course dinner.  The service was superb and I needed it because I was feeling down because my luggage did not arrive.  Phyllis and I had the best Chocolate Tart (I had to put it in caps because it was that good).  I had never had a tart like this.  It was dark chocolate, silky smooth, melt in your mouth, was decorated with edible gold and the crust was soft and buttery.  This was a perfect finale to an excellent meal and experience.  We finished out on the terrace with the Eiffel Tower illuminated in the background!  See what I mean? Just thinking about it now, I'm tasting and experiencing it all over again.

Champagne, Bordeaux & Cognac are places I had never been to before.  They exceeded my expectations!  Think about it...Champagne & Cognac are very small regions. Champagne is approximately 25,000 sq meters and Cognac is only 15.5 sq meters and they both are iconic,  producing world renowned products that have become household names.  When you visit them they are still very small.  I mean, you don't see this large production area or facilities.  They have both kept their charm but as you drive through the towns you see these big names and producers of Champagne and Cognac that I liken to celebrity homes.  I'm less familiar with the products of Bordeaux except that Bordeaux is a variety but it too is small, 10,700 sq meters.  Absolutely loved Bordeaux.  A great walking town, pedestrian streets, excellent seafood, quaint and large shops, fashionable and classically dressed people.  I had this phenomenal warm goat cheese salad and duck confit at a restaurant just around the corner from our hotel along with a half bottle of champagne. That meal best describes Bordeaux, simple, classic and most enjoyable! It's just a feel good, relaxing place.

On our last night back in Paris we did something very cliche and touristy but you just have to do it.  We took a dinner cruise along the Seine River.  When we boarded it was still daylight but that soon gave way to a beautiful sunset and the night.  Paris then becomes illuminated and even more romantic.  The boat is glass enclosed allowing for views all around.  We pass under bridges ornately decorated and structures along the river.  Also along the river are young people gathering for one of the first warm days of the year.  Some are coupled, some are just hanging out with friends and some have brought food and wine to enjoy.  There must have been thousands along the river route.  As young people often do some mooned us.  This was our farewell dinner and we had a four course dinner that was surprisingly good for a touristy river cruise. Each course was paired with wine as all of our meals were.  So, by the end there was dancing and it was apparent that everyone was having a good time.  It was sad and joyful at the same time.

Thank you to the WHUR World Tour group members for taking this experience with Advantage International and Thank you WHUR for allowing me to organize another WHUR World Tour.

Until we meet again.

Ja'Vonne Harley,
Co-Host, The Traveling Eye
Owner, Avantage International

Paris Report

Bonjour,

It's day 3 in Paris.  My luggage finally arrived at 1am. Yesterday, we went to the Louvre. I'll tell you about that on another post but today we have to talk about our trip to Reims, pronounced urais not reems.  All I know is that we went to the Champagne region.  And yes, Today was a good day!

Reims, the Champagne region is about a two hour drive from Paris heading west.  We left early this morning and our first stop was the town of Reims.  A typical town with small streets, boutique shops and a Cathedral, the Notre Dame Cathedral of Reims. Built between 1211 - 1516 it's, Gothic in appearance and was the site of the coronation of French kings. On almost every corner is a Champagne store selling a wide variety of Champagnes and most of my favorites with unique cases, paraphernalia and these wonderful pink cookies called biscuits roses de Reims.  They are a great accompaniment with Champagne.

Jean Paul Gobillard

We only spend an hour in Reims before we continue to Chateau de Pierry for a tour, tasting and lunch. Chateau de Pierry is an 18th century mansion and the owner, Jean Paul Gobillard, is a 10th generation owner.  Their Champagne, Paul Gobillard is a smooth Brut.  They use three grapes for their wines and champagnes.  Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay.  Jean Paul Gobillard is a very charming man and excitedly greets us outside in the courtyard.  He guides through the courtyard and to the front of the mansion and the garden.  The front lawn is shaped like a butterfly and at the end is a small river that runs along.  Unfortunately, it's the beginning of Spring and because of the colder weather not much is in bloom.  he then takes us into one of the cellars where the room is dark and damp like most cellars are.  There we taste his Champagne and Tony
Richards, the on air personality on WHUR, is selected to open the Champagne with a saber.  First, Jean Paul gives a demonstration, then it's Tony's turn.  He appears to be a bit nervous but he attentively watches and steps up for his turn.  With a 1..2...3 count he does it and in one swoop the cork pops and the Champagne pours.  Violla, Tony has done it and the drinking begins.  Tony is then presented with a certificate and can now use his new skill.

We head to the mansion for lunch in a well decorated room that's line with photos royalty.  We have a three course lunch that was delicious.  Starting with Feuillantine Champenooise aux Pleurotes et Champignons du temps, Fouillis d'herbes.  Puff Pastry with Oyster mushrooms of the Champagne region and a mess of herbs.  The mushrooms are unctuous.  Second course is Supreme de pintade en croute d'amandes au Champagne, polenta cremeuse. Supreme of guinea fowl in a pastry case of almonds in Champagne and creamy polenta.  The finale is Tarte chocolate en feuillantine craquante.  Chocolate brown tart in crunchy feullantine. Each course is paired with a wine and the desert is paired with their Rose Champagne.

Janyce & Earline

Two of our group members are celebrating a birthday so we serenade them with Happy Birthday and their dessert is presented first with candles.  When one of them leaned forward to reach for something the fringes from her shawl caught a fire from the candle.  Several people started hitting her shawl to put out the fire.  Getting every one's attention.  Knowing she was OK it not hurt some of the group members from another table came to her and started singing "This Girl is on Fire"!  It was hilarious!

The group started our quiet and by the second course and wine paring the vocal decibel's were raised.

You would think this was enough but we head to Epernay, the Capitol of Champagne for more wine tasting,  En route we drive down Champagne Avenue.  Now that's an address I'd like to have.  Champagne Avenue is lined with Champagne houses.  I'm so excited you would think I was passing by celebrity homes.  To me and some of the others it really a celebrity experience.  We passed by Perrier Jouet, Moet & Chandon, Dom Perignon, etc.  We were all taking photos and calling them out as we passed by.

Our last stop was at Mercier, a large scale Champagne house founder by Eugene Mercier.  He was the first to produce Champagne on a large scale and to do so without loosing the integrity of the Champagne.

The cellar tour starts with a short video, then to an elevator with a glass wall that takes you down thirty meters to the cellar itself.  The cellar tour is by train and it is massive with dark tunnels and thousands of barrels. Here we do three tastings.  Are we having fun yet.  Every one's demeanor has changed and some are getting really loose but in a fun way.  I truly enjoy seeing the group let their hair down and having a good time.

We now hit the road for our journey back to Paris.  On the bus we play Champagne trivia games to see who was paying attention during the presentations and after that it only takes 15 minutes before it gets quiet and the eyes start to close.

Tomorrow, we head to Bordeaux.

Later,
Ja'Vonne Harley, Co-Host, the Traveling eye
www.thetravelingeye.com