Reminiscing About France

I've returned home and now I'm reminiscing.  Memory lane is a fantastic destination and one of the biggest joys of traveling.

This trip, I rediscovered Paris and visited cities I had never been to before.  It's been at least 15 years since I've been to Paris and a lot has changed while some of the basics remained the same.

What has changed? The people were friendlier, more immigrants and people of different ethnicity's, more American fast food chains (Starbucks is everywhere, practically one on every corner, along with McDonald's, KFC, etc.), the French Franc is a thing of the past and it is quiet expensive (things are priced similar to the US Dollar but when you convert the Euro @ 1.34, you're paying at least 30% more).

Paris is still romantic. A stroll along the Champ Elysee at sunset with the Arc De Triomphe in the distance.  Viewing the Eiffel Tower from afar and from the top looking out over the city. The gardens in Spring time with flowers in bloom.  Ascending to the top of Montmarte visiting Sacre Couer, sitting at a coffee shop and watching artists paint their surroundings and visitors.  Some of the best chocolate, Chocolate shops and Patisserie's (you have to have macaroons, those pillowy pastries filled with cream in all sorts of flavors).  Some of the best dining in the world.  Our first night we went to Maison Blanche for a fine dining experience and a five course dinner.  The service was superb and I needed it because I was feeling down because my luggage did not arrive.  Phyllis and I had the best Chocolate Tart (I had to put it in caps because it was that good).  I had never had a tart like this.  It was dark chocolate, silky smooth, melt in your mouth, was decorated with edible gold and the crust was soft and buttery.  This was a perfect finale to an excellent meal and experience.  We finished out on the terrace with the Eiffel Tower illuminated in the background!  See what I mean? Just thinking about it now, I'm tasting and experiencing it all over again.

Champagne, Bordeaux & Cognac are places I had never been to before.  They exceeded my expectations!  Think about it...Champagne & Cognac are very small regions. Champagne is approximately 25,000 sq meters and Cognac is only 15.5 sq meters and they both are iconic,  producing world renowned products that have become household names.  When you visit them they are still very small.  I mean, you don't see this large production area or facilities.  They have both kept their charm but as you drive through the towns you see these big names and producers of Champagne and Cognac that I liken to celebrity homes.  I'm less familiar with the products of Bordeaux except that Bordeaux is a variety but it too is small, 10,700 sq meters.  Absolutely loved Bordeaux.  A great walking town, pedestrian streets, excellent seafood, quaint and large shops, fashionable and classically dressed people.  I had this phenomenal warm goat cheese salad and duck confit at a restaurant just around the corner from our hotel along with a half bottle of champagne. That meal best describes Bordeaux, simple, classic and most enjoyable! It's just a feel good, relaxing place.

On our last night back in Paris we did something very cliche and touristy but you just have to do it.  We took a dinner cruise along the Seine River.  When we boarded it was still daylight but that soon gave way to a beautiful sunset and the night.  Paris then becomes illuminated and even more romantic.  The boat is glass enclosed allowing for views all around.  We pass under bridges ornately decorated and structures along the river.  Also along the river are young people gathering for one of the first warm days of the year.  Some are coupled, some are just hanging out with friends and some have brought food and wine to enjoy.  There must have been thousands along the river route.  As young people often do some mooned us.  This was our farewell dinner and we had a four course dinner that was surprisingly good for a touristy river cruise. Each course was paired with wine as all of our meals were.  So, by the end there was dancing and it was apparent that everyone was having a good time.  It was sad and joyful at the same time.

Thank you to the WHUR World Tour group members for taking this experience with Advantage International and Thank you WHUR for allowing me to organize another WHUR World Tour.

Until we meet again.

Ja'Vonne Harley,
Co-Host, The Traveling Eye
Owner, Avantage International

Cognac Anyone?

This tour gets better by the day!  Just finished a stellar day in Cognac, France. About one and one half hour drive south of Bordeaux is the small city of Cognac.  The French country side is gorgeous!  Yellow flowers, blossoming trees, farmhouses and fields.  I see most of it when my eyes are open and I have not succumbed to the sand man.  It's hard for me as any motion makes me sleepy.  It's a pleasant drive.

We arrive in Cognac and embark on one of the most unique experiences I've had in a long while and for some, it's what they've been waiting for. You see, on our day in Champagne, one of our group members asked no less than 4 times, "when are we going to Cognac?"  Only to say once we arrived in Cognac, "I don't drink Cognac, I drink Brandy. But I wanted to give it a try" I know, you're having the same reaction I did. Huh?  Anyway, It's apparent that Hennessy owns this town.  There are other Cognac houses, some large and some small and just like when we were in Champagne, when we arrived in Cognac we saw some of the more famous named houses like Martel & Remy Martin.  It's impressive to see.

Hennessy, was founded by Richard Hennessy, who is actually from Ireland and at the ripe old age of 20 he moved to France to join the French army under Louis XV.  Then in 1765 he founded Hennessy.  In 1794 he made his first delivery to the US. In 1817 he created VSOP (Very Superior Ole Pale) for the then Prince of Whales. In 1870 Maurice Hennessy creates XO (Extra Old).  Hennessy is the largest and first international Cognac with 80% exported, most of that going to the US and most of that consumed by African Americans.  What I learned is that Cognac can only be called Cognac if the grapes are grown in Cognac, just like Champagne.  And yes, Cognac is made from grapes.  The vines produce Ugni Blanc and then only eaux-de-vies from the four great crus of the region are selected (Grand Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies and Fin Bois) for Hennessy Cognac.

Of course, we enjoy Hennessy, the tour and the tasting but the entire day is splendid.  We started with a cruise on an old wooden barge along the river and discovering the inhabitants of the river both wild and human, mansions owned by Hennessy as well as national gardens,parks and restaurants.  It's relaxing and pleasant on a perfect Spring day.  A bit chilly with fresh air and the occasional sunshine.  After our cruise we rejoin group 2 (our group is split into 2 and they visit Hennessy while we cruise the river and vice versa) for lunch at a restaurant along the rivers edge. We have a very country meal (brie, duck in a cherry reduction and an upside down apple tart with grand marnier caramel sauce) mmmmm.    After lunch we visit Hennessy.  It's an impressive tour and education and of course, after the tasting there's product and time for shopping.  I did get some goodies for some of my friends...you know who you are...and no, it's not the XO!  I love you but no can do.


Mistletoe

I learned two more things things today.

Along the river cruise I learned that mistletoe is a parasite that grows on the trees here. It's those balls you see here in the photo.

The second thing is the response to a sneeze in French (A tes souhaits) which means "to your wishes".



Tomorrow we return to Paris and awaiting us will be Julia Brown, the owner of Walking the Spirits.  She will take us on a Black Paris walking tour.  We're all anticipating it.

À la prochaine, (until next time)
Ja'Vonne Harley, Co-Host, The Traveling Eye
www.thetravelingeye.com

And Now Bordeaux

Well, I don't know how we're going to top Champagne but we will certainly try as we head south to Bordeaux.

We're leaving Paris behind for a couple of nights and staying at the Grand Hotel Bordeaux.  the hotel is f a b u l o u s! It' a historic land mark and resembles an Opera house and the location is ideal.

The best way to travel throughout France is by train so we take the TGV, the high speed train, in first class.  The train will take three hours.  Our train departs at 7:30am so we start with a wake up call at 5:00am to give time for breakfast, luggage, loading the bus and getting to the Montparnasse train station.

Our group (72) always seems to get attention.  I'm not sure if it's because we are so beautiful or if it's because we 72 black people traveling together?  What do you think?  As we are standing there waiting for our track to be displayed, a homeless man tries to blend in with our group.  As we try to distance ourselves from him he politely keeps his distance but stays near.  When I try to take a picture of the group waiting on the platform the homeless man jumps in to get in the picture.  Maybe I should have taken one of him.  He was sporting unattended dread locks and kept smiling.  Once again, I motioned with my hand for him to move and said excuse-moi and he politely moved to the side.

Sophie & me on TGV

The TGV is quick and smooth and after we talk for a bit, very quickly most of us start to doze off and before you know it we arrive in Bordeaux.  We immediately drive an hour outside of the city to Arsac and lunch at The Winery restaurant Wy.  We have the entire place to Napa.  The highlight of the meal was the dessert.  Nougat glace aux eclats de chocolat blanc, tuille aux amandes et confiture de lait.  White chocolate chipped iced nougat, almond tuile and caramel sauce.  Almost every plate was clean and our resident pastry chef gave it a thumbs up.
ourselves.  The Winery is modern and looks a lot like the wineries of

The Winery has a unique approach to wine and wine tasting.  They provide you with blind tastings of six different wines.  during the tasting you're taught how to recognize wine through sight, smell and taste.  During the process you're asked questions about the wine you're tasting and some general questions about your personal tastes.  At the end you're presented with your unique wine sign.  It's called your oenological sign.  This determines your wine profile and your personality.  Mine is "Strong Ascendant Gourmet". I have a muscular palate...and a soft heart.

After lunch and the wine tasting we head to the Chateaux d'Arsac for a tour and more tasting.

Happy Birthday Earnestine

This is one fun trip and we're getting friendly.  However, as much as I enjoyed today, I like Champagne better, I mean the drink. That being said I love Bordeaux, the city. I could stay more days here and dine around and shop.  I would definitely say that Bordeaux is a B-Side destination that is a hit! It's charming but not too small.  It has pedestrian streets with wonder shops and restaurants.  Lots of Brasseries. The people are friendly and it has an overall elegant feel.


Gene and I decide to spend an evening alone and dine at a charming brasserie just around the corner from the hotel, but we're spotted and before we know it at least 20 group members are also dining there.  It's OK, they all say hello and take their tables.  The pastries here are beautiful to the eyes and delectable on the tongue. I have the raspberry tart and Gene has the praline cream filled donut.  Of course, I have a bottle of Moet & Chandon to wash it all down.

Tomorrow we head to Cognac....I'm glad this day has arrived because one group member asks every day..."When are we going to Cognac?" He has the itinerary but insists on asking.

Until then.....

Ja'Vonne Harley, Co-Host, The Traveling Eye
www.thetravelingeye.com

Paris Report

Bonjour,

It's day 3 in Paris.  My luggage finally arrived at 1am. Yesterday, we went to the Louvre. I'll tell you about that on another post but today we have to talk about our trip to Reims, pronounced urais not reems.  All I know is that we went to the Champagne region.  And yes, Today was a good day!

Reims, the Champagne region is about a two hour drive from Paris heading west.  We left early this morning and our first stop was the town of Reims.  A typical town with small streets, boutique shops and a Cathedral, the Notre Dame Cathedral of Reims. Built between 1211 - 1516 it's, Gothic in appearance and was the site of the coronation of French kings. On almost every corner is a Champagne store selling a wide variety of Champagnes and most of my favorites with unique cases, paraphernalia and these wonderful pink cookies called biscuits roses de Reims.  They are a great accompaniment with Champagne.

Jean Paul Gobillard

We only spend an hour in Reims before we continue to Chateau de Pierry for a tour, tasting and lunch. Chateau de Pierry is an 18th century mansion and the owner, Jean Paul Gobillard, is a 10th generation owner.  Their Champagne, Paul Gobillard is a smooth Brut.  They use three grapes for their wines and champagnes.  Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay.  Jean Paul Gobillard is a very charming man and excitedly greets us outside in the courtyard.  He guides through the courtyard and to the front of the mansion and the garden.  The front lawn is shaped like a butterfly and at the end is a small river that runs along.  Unfortunately, it's the beginning of Spring and because of the colder weather not much is in bloom.  he then takes us into one of the cellars where the room is dark and damp like most cellars are.  There we taste his Champagne and Tony
Richards, the on air personality on WHUR, is selected to open the Champagne with a saber.  First, Jean Paul gives a demonstration, then it's Tony's turn.  He appears to be a bit nervous but he attentively watches and steps up for his turn.  With a 1..2...3 count he does it and in one swoop the cork pops and the Champagne pours.  Violla, Tony has done it and the drinking begins.  Tony is then presented with a certificate and can now use his new skill.

We head to the mansion for lunch in a well decorated room that's line with photos royalty.  We have a three course lunch that was delicious.  Starting with Feuillantine Champenooise aux Pleurotes et Champignons du temps, Fouillis d'herbes.  Puff Pastry with Oyster mushrooms of the Champagne region and a mess of herbs.  The mushrooms are unctuous.  Second course is Supreme de pintade en croute d'amandes au Champagne, polenta cremeuse. Supreme of guinea fowl in a pastry case of almonds in Champagne and creamy polenta.  The finale is Tarte chocolate en feuillantine craquante.  Chocolate brown tart in crunchy feullantine. Each course is paired with a wine and the desert is paired with their Rose Champagne.

Janyce & Earline

Two of our group members are celebrating a birthday so we serenade them with Happy Birthday and their dessert is presented first with candles.  When one of them leaned forward to reach for something the fringes from her shawl caught a fire from the candle.  Several people started hitting her shawl to put out the fire.  Getting every one's attention.  Knowing she was OK it not hurt some of the group members from another table came to her and started singing "This Girl is on Fire"!  It was hilarious!

The group started our quiet and by the second course and wine paring the vocal decibel's were raised.

You would think this was enough but we head to Epernay, the Capitol of Champagne for more wine tasting,  En route we drive down Champagne Avenue.  Now that's an address I'd like to have.  Champagne Avenue is lined with Champagne houses.  I'm so excited you would think I was passing by celebrity homes.  To me and some of the others it really a celebrity experience.  We passed by Perrier Jouet, Moet & Chandon, Dom Perignon, etc.  We were all taking photos and calling them out as we passed by.

Our last stop was at Mercier, a large scale Champagne house founder by Eugene Mercier.  He was the first to produce Champagne on a large scale and to do so without loosing the integrity of the Champagne.

The cellar tour starts with a short video, then to an elevator with a glass wall that takes you down thirty meters to the cellar itself.  The cellar tour is by train and it is massive with dark tunnels and thousands of barrels. Here we do three tastings.  Are we having fun yet.  Every one's demeanor has changed and some are getting really loose but in a fun way.  I truly enjoy seeing the group let their hair down and having a good time.

We now hit the road for our journey back to Paris.  On the bus we play Champagne trivia games to see who was paying attention during the presentations and after that it only takes 15 minutes before it gets quiet and the eyes start to close.

Tomorrow, we head to Bordeaux.

Later,
Ja'Vonne Harley, Co-Host, the Traveling eye
www.thetravelingeye.com

Ahhhh Paris

I just arrived in Paris. Instead of going to the hotel we take our city orientation tour and then to the Eiffel Tower. It's a a bit colder than expected but it's OK because it's Paris.  The sun is peaking out from time to time and provides a bit of warmth.  It's a bit windy standing below the Tower and when the sun is covered by the clouds it feels 10 degrees colder. Pashmina don't fail me now.  Actually on of our group members is wearing his wifes bright orange pashmina.  He says, I don't know what a pashmina is but it's keeping me warm and right now I don't care that it's bright orange. Looking up at the Eiffel Tower it appears to move because of the effects of the clouds passing by.  I'm trying to get the right angle to fit the tower into a picture. With the right tilt it works.


Our tour begins and is the behind the scenes tour so we start in one of the working tunnels.  It's a world of it's own.  Pieces from inside of the tower show how its made.  Workers are coming in and out and we learn about the how food, materials and the construction is transported and the vast and many tunnels that exist beneath the Tower.

After our underground excursion we head to the East Tower to enter the Eiffel Tower itself.  Unfortunately, there is a delay.  The staff have walked out but instead of leaving they are having a meeting with management and we're told it's because of being understaffed.  Our entrance tickets are for 10:30am and it's now 11:00am so we're not sure what time business will resume but we're assured business will resume.  Our tour company is busy trying to sort things out.  We're also to have lunch at noon at 58, one of the Eiffel Towers restaurants.  Now, I'm getting nervous, I have 70 people standing in line anxiously waiting to visit the Eiffel Tower and to have lunch.  We get a call that the director will come to get our group and take us to the restaurant and we will tour afterwards.  We feel so special as we are escorted ahead of the line and allowed to enter.  Then the rest of the staff arrive and everyone who was in line including those who were there since 9am are allowed to enter.

We go through a side door and down the stairs to view the mechanisms of the Eiffel Tower.  It's amazing how the Tower is constructed and what it takes to maintain it.

The hunger pangs are knocking and we are ready to get in out of the cold, have a seat and a wonderful meal.  We're having a three course lunch with wine.  We start with duck and foie gras terrine, followed by seared salmon with marscapone foam and finish with a meringue.  It's all delicious and paired with the fantastic views from the restaurant this is an awesome way to experience the Eiffel Tower.

Heading back to the hotel for some much needed rest and to try and track my luggage that did not arrive.  This is another story and another blog post.

Until tomorrow...we're visiting the Louvre!

Ja'Vonne Harley, Host, The Traveling Eye
www.thetravelingeye.com

In Salvador, Bahia, Brazil

It’s Sunday, and more then anything else, this is family day at the beach for those who call Salvador home. That means a mixture of the richer hue that makes up Brazil. By richer, I mean in melanin, because Brazil is definitely not a “melting pot” no more then the US is. Brazil is a rich chocolate cake with a thick layer of mocha and a thin layer of vanilla cream on top. It’s thin, but it is clearly on top. As George Bush noted to Brazilian President, Fernando Henrique Cardoso, "Do you have blacks, too?". Yes Mr. President. Brazil has “Blacks Too”. An overwhelming number of Brazilians are of African decent and Brazil has the largest number of people of African decent in the Western Hemisphere (Your Cerebral Injection for today). And if Brazil has a lot of Blacks, then Salvador is C.C. (Chocolate City).

But I digress… It’s Sunday and that means a day at the beach. Brazilians are into family. That means all the kids, a few neighbors, their kids, grandma, grandpa, aunts and uncles and anyone else that can squeeze in the car or on the bus is here at Ondina Beach or any number of beaches that cover the coastline. They come prepared. Not just umbrella and towels, but with furniture, pots of excellent smelling food, dishware, radios and a recognition that this is a really going to be a good day. It’s similar to a family day at Coney Island, North Beach or Haines Point if we were in NY, CHI or DC.

They know how to do up the water sports too. You see, the coast is rocky and full of boulders and cliffs. Some people go out and work the waves, but the experts know that there are natural pools among those rocks. About knee to waist high and perfect for lying back and relaxing. Add this to a nearly perfect (hot) climate year round and you can spot folks lounging in these natural pools anytime, 24 hrs each day. So families arrive early and stay until late. Soccer (football) games are ongoing, home made kites fill the air and music comes at you from every direction. Of course the kids are all texting each other, but that is simply what a Family Day is now and going forward. Why call someone who is 100 feet away when you can write them a message. Marconi would be so proud and Edison confused.

I am also at Ondina Beach to see the Fat Girls Statues. Now before those cards and letter (or threatening text) start. This is a series of three statues that represent the women of Brazil (If not by proportion). The furthest from the beach is a Native American looking back toward the mountain and the land she called home, a European on one leg as if feeling the sun from Europe, and an African looking back with a longing for Africa. It is big and powerful but can be overlooked as you drive  by. But it is worth stopping for.

Well it is hot, and my sandals are now stuck to the pavement. My sunscreen has runoff and my water bottle is boiling, so I am heading back to my hotel. Don’t do Brazil with out seeing Salvador and Bahia. If Rio is the pulsating heart, then Salvador is definitely the Soul.

See you on the plane…

Gene Harley, Executive Producer, The Traveling Eye

If it is Tuesday…it’s Olodum in Pelourinho

I arrive on a Tuesday. Stressed out from my economy seat and not so consumerable meal.  I checked in to my hotel and went to sleep for a few. You do this because on Tuesday night, we follow the beat of the drums to Pelourinho, the old section of Salvador, Bahia in Brazil.  Highways and sidewalks with modern high-rise buildings give way to cobblestone streets as the drumming grows louder and you no longer hear it, you feel it. The people begin to move with a singular rhythm. The colonial churches and buildings guide you to small streets and alleys and there you are, In the midst of a thousand of new friends who were also drawn and can feel the beats of AFRICA.

Olodum is the Drumming that takes place on Tuesdays and has since 1979. Back then it was "Terça da Bença" (Tuesday of Blessing), originally designating the day Saint Francis of Assisi, would distribute food to the needy. Later it became the day when bands would practice. Now the streets of Pelourinho fill with people dining, drinking and dancing. It is truly a street party on the grandest, but purest scale.

As a bit of history, The Grupo Cultural Olodum was founded in 1979 by the dwellers of the Maciel-Pelourinho district of Salvador. It has grown to include any number of street marching bands. Clubs with bands and corner groups fill in the chorus. But back then they were working to get their percussion section into Carnaval. Blacks were not always part of this celebration known Worldwide. The name Olodum, like the drum, the rhythm and the people all are African. Olodum is from Olodumaré "the God of all gods” in the Nigerian Yoruba religion of Candomblé which is another reason why you must visit Salvador and Bahia. All this and so much more is alive in Salvador, Bahia, Brazil’ where the African Diaspora LIVES.

Gene Harley, Executive Producer