The Traveling Eye is here in Montreal, staying at the Le St. Martin Hotel Particulier Downtown. I know it's a long name but there is a meaning behind the name. Particulier is a term from France that was applied to upscale bed and breakfasts whereby the service was homey yet exceptional. Le St. Martin is a small hotel that has strayed away from the term "boutique" hotel because it's not about the size rather about the service. When you return you always feel like you're returning home. From the reception desk to housekeeping the staff serve you with a smile. The minibar is an honor system and it's up to you to advise the front desk of what you've consumed. There's a snack bar that is unattended and is also on the honor system. The snack bar is on the lobby level right next to reception and is stocked with soft drinks, coffee, snacks and biscotti's. If you need a lap top they will loan you one and the wi-fi is free. Bistro L'Aromate, the restaurant is a quaint place with a big menu. French bistro cuisine at it's best. Celebrity chef Jean-Francois Plante has put together a fabulous menu of upscale bistro fare. The Veal Cheek Bourguignon is fork tender and the roasted vegetable terrine with goat cheese.......hmmmm. I have to say he is also a good looking man and is there most evenings. I know why this bistro is fast becoming a local favorite.
The style of the hotel is modern with an old fashion elegance. Every room has a view and fire place. Not with real fire but the ambiance makes it OK. The pool is open year round and is heated to 110 in the winter. All rooms are equipped with flat screens and docking stations.
The Le St. Martin Hotel Partiulier is a fantastic affordable property. Love love love it!
Ja'Vonne Harley, your concierge to the world
Friday, March 18, 2011
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Abu Dhabi & Dubai's Opulence
Visiting Abu Dhabi, one of the seven Emirates and the capital of UAE is opulence at its best. They discovered oil in 1968 but were not able to maintain its wealth due to bad business deals with foreigners. However, it did not take long before they realized what needed to be done. They set out to educate their people and create working relationships all the while keeping the wealth and flow of money in Abu Dhabi.
Our first stop is the Sheik Mohammed Mosque. A beautiful white mosque that has been nick named the White Pearl of the East. Barring the age of the Taj Mahal this is the most impressive mosque I've ever seen. Marble from around the world, inlaid gems, gold plating, 82 domes, 4 minarets and at a running cost of two billion Durhams beauty at its best. All women are required to change into abayas, the long black dress and scarf fo covering your head, to enter the mosque. This is part of the experience.
We then proceeded to the Emirates Palace Hotel, a Kempinski property. Built to look like the royal palace this is an exclusive hotel. Celebrities, dignitaries and world leaders stay here. We toured the property and gtook pictures of the famous Gold vending machine. By the way this hotel is also known for that 11 million dollar Christmas tree with gold and precious gems for ornaments. We had a fabulous buffet lunch here at the Le Vendome restaurant. We all indulged ourselves with this lavish buffet.
Afterwards and on our way back to Dubai we made a quick stop at Ferrari World. We did not enter the amusement park itself but we were able to get a glimpse of the fastest rollercoaster and purchase some souvineirs.
In Dubai the next day we had tea at the Burj Al Arab. The only 7 star hotel in the world. The one that looks like a sailboat, has the helipad where Andre Agassi & Pete Sampras played tennis, tiger woods hit a few golf balls and of course where the guests land via helicopter. The tea service was a two hour service that includes one glass of champagne, any soft drinks, tea, coffee, finger sandwiches, pastries, scones and cookies. The passion fruit iced tea is awesome, afterall it's prepared at the world famous bar at the Burj Al Arab that created the 10 thousand dollar cocktail.
Both properties are off limits unless you are a guest or have business there. So unless you have a hotel, lunch or dinner reservation you're not able to visit either property.
A trip would not be complete without visiting at least one of them and at least pretending to be among the rich and/or famous.
Tonight, our last night, some of us are going to the Usher concert. I know....Only In Dubai!
Our first stop is the Sheik Mohammed Mosque. A beautiful white mosque that has been nick named the White Pearl of the East. Barring the age of the Taj Mahal this is the most impressive mosque I've ever seen. Marble from around the world, inlaid gems, gold plating, 82 domes, 4 minarets and at a running cost of two billion Durhams beauty at its best. All women are required to change into abayas, the long black dress and scarf fo covering your head, to enter the mosque. This is part of the experience.
We then proceeded to the Emirates Palace Hotel, a Kempinski property. Built to look like the royal palace this is an exclusive hotel. Celebrities, dignitaries and world leaders stay here. We toured the property and gtook pictures of the famous Gold vending machine. By the way this hotel is also known for that 11 million dollar Christmas tree with gold and precious gems for ornaments. We had a fabulous buffet lunch here at the Le Vendome restaurant. We all indulged ourselves with this lavish buffet.
Afterwards and on our way back to Dubai we made a quick stop at Ferrari World. We did not enter the amusement park itself but we were able to get a glimpse of the fastest rollercoaster and purchase some souvineirs.
In Dubai the next day we had tea at the Burj Al Arab. The only 7 star hotel in the world. The one that looks like a sailboat, has the helipad where Andre Agassi & Pete Sampras played tennis, tiger woods hit a few golf balls and of course where the guests land via helicopter. The tea service was a two hour service that includes one glass of champagne, any soft drinks, tea, coffee, finger sandwiches, pastries, scones and cookies. The passion fruit iced tea is awesome, afterall it's prepared at the world famous bar at the Burj Al Arab that created the 10 thousand dollar cocktail.
Both properties are off limits unless you are a guest or have business there. So unless you have a hotel, lunch or dinner reservation you're not able to visit either property.
A trip would not be complete without visiting at least one of them and at least pretending to be among the rich and/or famous.
Tonight, our last night, some of us are going to the Usher concert. I know....Only In Dubai!
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
Dubai
Arriving in Dubai was a huge difference from arriving in Egypt. Already you can feel the different vide of the city. Here it's more conservative and stand offish. Airport officials are in long crisp white robes and head dresses. Not so many smiles. As we exit the airport our local guide is ready to greet us, a South African woman of Indian descent. Eighty percent of the residence here are foreigners. I'll tell you about that later.
Our first day is a day of leisure and most of the group take the metro to the Dubai Mall, which has over 1000 stores and a watershow that puts the Bellagio's to shame.
Our first day is a day of leisure and most of the group take the metro to the Dubai Mall, which has over 1000 stores and a watershow that puts the Bellagio's to shame.
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| Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world. |
We start our touring on the 6th with a city orientation tour that is about the architecture and the fast growth of Dubai. We visit the Palm Island which is the home of the Atlantis Hotel. The Palm Island started with many investors and very high property value but after the global economic melt down prices were cut in half. Still very expensive by any standard the original buyers have seen a lost. We enter from the base and trunk of the Palm and the branches or leaves are the residences.
At one point Dubai has 2/3's of the worlds cranes and now the cranes are gone, there are shells of buildings that were abandoned mid construction but the opulence is still around. We also go to the Dubai Museum. It's interesting to see how the lives of the people of Dubai have drastically changed ove the years after the discovery of oil. People had a very simple life and Dubia was just a dessert.
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| Charlotte on the Dhow It's her birthday! |
We finish with a cruise along the harbor on a Dhow. A traditional wooden fishing boat. It's a typical evening dinner cruise. However, six months prior to our arrival they stopped serving alcohol and lowered the volume of the music. Outside of the views from the harbor this is just OK.
Sunday, March 6, 2011
The Nile and Nubia
In the village school is out but we became the students as the head master gives us a lesson on Arabic and Nubain ABC's and 123's. We were very good students and eager to learn as we each wrote our name on the board in Arabic.
The Nubian people should be revered for their sacifice for the greater good of the country. They gave up their land and agreed to be relocated so that Egypt could build the Aswan Dam and harvest water that saved Egypt from the drought that has so drastically affected other countries.
Finishing our Nile Rive Cruise we have lunch in Aswan at a Nubian restaurant, Dokka and have a Nubian Tangine. Tangine is clay pot cooking of meats like chicken, beef and fish in a tomato sauce. It's then served with rice, bread, babaganoush, salad and tahini (sesame seed paste). After lunch we head to the Temple of Philae. Philae was also moved to higher ground and is surrounded water. After touring the Temple with it's Greek and Roman symbles and graffitti left behind by Napolean we sit along the water at the outdoo cafe fo coffee and watch the sun as it begins to set.
It's hard to leave Egypt. This is a special time to be here. Arriving in Cairo just two weeks after Mubarak stepped down giving the people victory for change was electric. We felt like we were part of the process just being there. Finishing with a Nile Rive cruise to a slower paced vacation on an all-suite ship, the Sonesta Star Goddess. Entering the empty airport in Aswan. All flights but one were canceled and all the groups and individuals we met along the way were on the same flight. We're already reminesces about our journey and experiences.
Ou next stop is Dubai, UAE, same language, same religion, a short 3.5 hour flight but we know will be worlds apart from Egypt.
See you in Dubai!
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| Nubian boy in Aswan |
As we sail south along the Nile River the complexion changes. We are heading to Aswan and the Nubian people. Nubia or Nuba is an ancient Arabic word for Gold so Nubia was the land of Gold. Originally Sudan was part of Egypt. To give your a geographical reference, Aswan is very close to the Sudan and even closer is Abu Simbel. The coast that lines the Nile River on both sides is dotted with tombs and temples from the Pharoac period thousands of years before christ, most of which are the oldest but are not in good condition.
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| Headmaster at Nubian Village |
We visit one of the oldest Nubian Villages, Gharbsuhel, that is still in its original location and did not have to move because of the Aswan Dam as most Nubian Villages did. This is the first time I've gone so far along the Nile River to a Nubian Village, thanks to our guide and Egyptologist Mostafa Hasaan. This is the most beautifil pat of the Nile with narrow passages passing the botanical gardens, other villages, some of the best rock and plant formations along the way. This is very much like a santuary.
In the village school is out but we became the students as the head master gives us a lesson on Arabic and Nubain ABC's and 123's. We were very good students and eager to learn as we each wrote our name on the board in Arabic.
The Nubian people should be revered for their sacifice for the greater good of the country. They gave up their land and agreed to be relocated so that Egypt could build the Aswan Dam and harvest water that saved Egypt from the drought that has so drastically affected other countries.
Finishing our Nile Rive Cruise we have lunch in Aswan at a Nubian restaurant, Dokka and have a Nubian Tangine. Tangine is clay pot cooking of meats like chicken, beef and fish in a tomato sauce. It's then served with rice, bread, babaganoush, salad and tahini (sesame seed paste). After lunch we head to the Temple of Philae. Philae was also moved to higher ground and is surrounded water. After touring the Temple with it's Greek and Roman symbles and graffitti left behind by Napolean we sit along the water at the outdoo cafe fo coffee and watch the sun as it begins to set.
It's hard to leave Egypt. This is a special time to be here. Arriving in Cairo just two weeks after Mubarak stepped down giving the people victory for change was electric. We felt like we were part of the process just being there. Finishing with a Nile Rive cruise to a slower paced vacation on an all-suite ship, the Sonesta Star Goddess. Entering the empty airport in Aswan. All flights but one were canceled and all the groups and individuals we met along the way were on the same flight. We're already reminesces about our journey and experiences.
Ou next stop is Dubai, UAE, same language, same religion, a short 3.5 hour flight but we know will be worlds apart from Egypt.
See you in Dubai!
 |
| Me and Egyptian @ Hatsheput's Temple |
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| Mosque along the Nile in Aswan |
Thursday, March 3, 2011
The New Egypt
We’ve left Cairo and are now on board the Sonesta Star Goddess, an all-suite ship, for a four-night Nile River cruise. When we left our hotel in Cairo at 5:30am on Monday, the streets were empty due to the curfew that is in effect from midnight to 6am.
The Cairo airport is not the hectic scene it usually is with thousands of tourists flying home or to other parts of Egypt. Instead, there are mostly business travelers and few tourists. Our flight to Luxor was mostly full but again with few tourists and mostly business travelers. Those business travelers are happy to see us here; many have thanked us for coming and asked that we spread the word that it is safe to come to Egypt.
Upon arrival in Luxor we immediately notice the change in pace. Luxor is usually a much slower pace than Cairo but this time it is even more so. While there are markedly more tourist here there aren’t nearly as many as there would normally be. Luxor is located in Upper Egypt and is considered the countryside. You’ll see many farmers and donkey drawn carts with produce, men dressed in Galabeya’s with turban wrapped heads. The roads are lined with palm trees and the traffic is reduced to two lanes. This small unassuming place is the home to some of the most impressive ancient sites. The Arabic word Luxor means “The Palaces” and it was the capital of Ancient Egypt.
We head straight to the Karnak Temple, the largest complex in the world. This open-air museum makes ancient Egypt come to life with statues of Ramsey II, Tutankhamen, Amenhotep III and the road of Sphinx. Walking through Karnak gives you the sense of the life then. We’re talking about an area covering over 100 acres. Immediately following the Karnak temple we head to the Luxor Temple. Smaller in size, the Luxor Temple is the ancient city of Thebes.
On our second day in Luxor before the ship sets sail we visit the Temple of Hatshepsut, the Valley of the Kings and Valley of Queens.
I am fascinated with Hatshepsut’s story and her temple is a site to see. Hatshepsut was the most powerful female Pharaoh that ever ruled. She ruled with finesse but make no mistake about it she was tough. Her temples architecture surpassed any that had been built before it. Hatshepsut’s husband was sickly and died at an early age giving her cause to reign. She was succeeded by her step and it is unclear how she died or if he overthrew her. He did however erase her name from her temple keeping the statues but replacing the cartouches with his name. One odd thing that was discovered was the tomb of her architect, which was near Hatshepsut's Temple and is very uncommon. Even more surprising was a connection from her tomb to his and some graffiti that depicted a love affair with Hatshepsut and her architect. Finally, her sarcophagus was found in the nannies tomb. Was this a sign of disrespect? Was she hidden for protection or was it simply misplaced by archeologists?
The Valley of the Kings is a place where kings and other royals were buried. Numerous chambers are underground and used to house the sarcophagi and worldly possessions of the kings. Cameras are no longer allowed. The Valley of the Queens is where the queens and others were buried. Most of the tombs found here are in poor condition and cannot be seen by tourists. Nefertari’s tomb is here and is one that can be seen. It’s small but boasts brilliant colors. Hatshepsut’s tomb is not here. He tomb is near her temple. You can also find tombs of prince’s in The Valley of the Queens.
I know most people come to Egypt for the Pyramids of Giza, but the most impressive for me is Luxor and it’s temples and tombs. The walls, temples and tombs tell a much greater story for me.
I prefer the four-night Nile River cruise that starts in Luxor and sails to Aswan rather than the three-night Nile Rive cruise that starts in Aswan and sails to Luxor. On the four-night cruise you can break up the tours of Luxor into two half-day tours instead of cramming them into one full day tour before heading to the airport.
We’re finished touring for the day and our ship has set sail.
Tune in for our next adventure as we sail along the Nile River.
Ja'Vonne Harley
The Cairo airport is not the hectic scene it usually is with thousands of tourists flying home or to other parts of Egypt. Instead, there are mostly business travelers and few tourists. Our flight to Luxor was mostly full but again with few tourists and mostly business travelers. Those business travelers are happy to see us here; many have thanked us for coming and asked that we spread the word that it is safe to come to Egypt.
Upon arrival in Luxor we immediately notice the change in pace. Luxor is usually a much slower pace than Cairo but this time it is even more so. While there are markedly more tourist here there aren’t nearly as many as there would normally be. Luxor is located in Upper Egypt and is considered the countryside. You’ll see many farmers and donkey drawn carts with produce, men dressed in Galabeya’s with turban wrapped heads. The roads are lined with palm trees and the traffic is reduced to two lanes. This small unassuming place is the home to some of the most impressive ancient sites. The Arabic word Luxor means “The Palaces” and it was the capital of Ancient Egypt.
We head straight to the Karnak Temple, the largest complex in the world. This open-air museum makes ancient Egypt come to life with statues of Ramsey II, Tutankhamen, Amenhotep III and the road of Sphinx. Walking through Karnak gives you the sense of the life then. We’re talking about an area covering over 100 acres. Immediately following the Karnak temple we head to the Luxor Temple. Smaller in size, the Luxor Temple is the ancient city of Thebes.
On our second day in Luxor before the ship sets sail we visit the Temple of Hatshepsut, the Valley of the Kings and Valley of Queens.
I am fascinated with Hatshepsut’s story and her temple is a site to see. Hatshepsut was the most powerful female Pharaoh that ever ruled. She ruled with finesse but make no mistake about it she was tough. Her temples architecture surpassed any that had been built before it. Hatshepsut’s husband was sickly and died at an early age giving her cause to reign. She was succeeded by her step and it is unclear how she died or if he overthrew her. He did however erase her name from her temple keeping the statues but replacing the cartouches with his name. One odd thing that was discovered was the tomb of her architect, which was near Hatshepsut's Temple and is very uncommon. Even more surprising was a connection from her tomb to his and some graffiti that depicted a love affair with Hatshepsut and her architect. Finally, her sarcophagus was found in the nannies tomb. Was this a sign of disrespect? Was she hidden for protection or was it simply misplaced by archeologists?
The Valley of the Kings is a place where kings and other royals were buried. Numerous chambers are underground and used to house the sarcophagi and worldly possessions of the kings. Cameras are no longer allowed. The Valley of the Queens is where the queens and others were buried. Most of the tombs found here are in poor condition and cannot be seen by tourists. Nefertari’s tomb is here and is one that can be seen. It’s small but boasts brilliant colors. Hatshepsut’s tomb is not here. He tomb is near her temple. You can also find tombs of prince’s in The Valley of the Queens.
I know most people come to Egypt for the Pyramids of Giza, but the most impressive for me is Luxor and it’s temples and tombs. The walls, temples and tombs tell a much greater story for me.
I prefer the four-night Nile River cruise that starts in Luxor and sails to Aswan rather than the three-night Nile Rive cruise that starts in Aswan and sails to Luxor. On the four-night cruise you can break up the tours of Luxor into two half-day tours instead of cramming them into one full day tour before heading to the airport.
We’re finished touring for the day and our ship has set sail.
Tune in for our next adventure as we sail along the Nile River.
Ja'Vonne Harley
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